I N D O R E
Indore, (MP) functions as a base camp for tourists and our tour manager received us at the railway station and made the lodging and transport arrangements. The Holkars ruled this area during 17th century and as such the sight-seeing included the Rajwada Palace, a blend of Maratha and Mughal styles with a giant wooden door and seven storied entrance. Lal Bagh Palace is another majestic monument of Holkar dynasty reflecting the lifestyle and grandeur of the Holkars besides the Krishnapura Chhatris (cenotaphs) and the royal tombs. The tallest structure in Indore is the replica of Eiffel Tower at All India Radio campus, which rises more than 1000 ft. We relished the taste of indore sweet specialities like Moong ka Halwa, Gajar ka Halwa, Rabri, Maalpua, Faluda kulfi, Ras-Malai, RasGulla... Annapurna Temple is is one among the famous pilgrimage centres. A very beautiful and one of the oldest temples in Indore, dedicated to the goddess Annapoorna. This majestic shrine bears a resemblance to the famous Madurai Meenakshi Temple of Madurai.
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U J J A I N
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U J J A I N
We drove to the ancient city Ujjain ( initially called Avantika ) regarded as one of the seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) of the Hindus. Situated on the banks of the sacred River Shipra, UJJAIN, 60km north of Indore, is one of India's seven holiest cities. Equal to Benaras, Gaya , Kanchi, Haridwar, Nasik and Prayag, it plays host every twelve years to the country's largest religious gathering, the Kumbh Mela, which in 2004 drew an estimated thirty million pilgrims here to bathe, to wash away several lifetimes of bad karma. According to Hindu scriptures it was also the place where where Lord Krishna, along with Balarama and Sudama, received his education from Maharshi Sandipani. One of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India, the lingam at the Mahakaleshwar Mandir.
[ Mahakal is the Lord of time and Death ] is believed to be swayambhu ( born of itself ) deriving currents of power (shakti) from within itself as against the other images and lingams which are ritually established and invested with mantra- shakti. The idol of Mahakaleshwar is known to be dakshinamurti, facing the south, the only Jyotirling of its kind having a special significance in the Tantric tradition. We performed our pujas there.
[ Mahakal is the Lord of time and Death ] is believed to be swayambhu ( born of itself ) deriving currents of power (shakti) from within itself as against the other images and lingams which are ritually established and invested with mantra- shakti. The idol of Mahakaleshwar is known to be dakshinamurti, facing the south, the only Jyotirling of its kind having a special significance in the Tantric tradition. We performed our pujas there.
An ancient seat of learning, Ujjain is the place with many of the temples and ghats including Jyotirlingam Shri Mahakaaleshwar Mandir, Mangalnath mandir, Ram Ghat, Harsidhdhi Mandir, Kaal Bhairav, Bhartari Gufa, an ancient cave of Raja Bhartari) Kaal Bhairav Temple said to have been built by King Bhadrasen dedicated to Kaal Bhairav, an fierce incarnation of Lord Shiva. Bhairava means "Terrific". He is often depicted with frowning, angry eyes and sharp, tiger's teeth and flaming hair, stark naked except for garlands of skulls and a coiled snake about his neck. In his four hands he carries a noose, trident, drum, and skull. He is often shown accompanied by a dog. Devotees go through an errie experience.
In Mangalnath temple Mahadev or Lord Shiva is the main deity worshipped and Mangalnath is regarded as the birth place of Mars. The throne of Maharaja Vikramaditya, known as the " seat of judgment (salabanjika throne) " is located in the Rudra Sagar lake.The Bharthari caves is an ancient site which has some interesting legends associated with it.
In Mangalnath temple Mahadev or Lord Shiva is the main deity worshipped and Mangalnath is regarded as the birth place of Mars. The throne of Maharaja Vikramaditya, known as the " seat of judgment (salabanjika throne) " is located in the Rudra Sagar lake.The Bharthari caves is an ancient site which has some interesting legends associated with it.
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O M K A R E S H W A R
Omkareshwar is on an island called Mandhata or Shivapuri in the Narmada river; the shape of the island is said to be like the Hindu OM symbol. It is one of the holiest Hindu sites in India by virtue of the presence of a Jyotirlingam, one of the twelve in India. There are two temples here, one to Omkareshwar ( whose name means "Lord of Omkaara or the Lord of the Om Sound" ) and one to Amareshwar ( whose name means "Immortal lord" or "lord of the Immortals or Devas").... This temple is too close to the precipitously deep bank of the Narmada. During fair and festival seasons, it is very difficult to control the crowds in the temple. On every Monday the gold plates three headed idol of Lord Omkar is taken in a palanquin with bands, drums , priests and devotees gather in procession, first they go to the river where worship is done and then through the streets of the town. In the month of holy shravan the processions call “Somvar Sawaris” are huge and grand, the crowds dancing uttering the Lord’s name “Om Shambhu Bholenath”, and throwing Gulal making the atmosphere red..... [ As per Shiv Mahapuran, once Brahma (the Hindu God of creation) and Vishnu (the Hindu God of Protection and Care) had an argument in terms of supremacy of creation. To test them, Shiva pierced the three worlds as a huge endless pillar of light, the jyotirlinga. Vishnu and Brahma split their ways to downwards and upwards respectively to find the end of the light in either directions. Brahma lied that he found out the end, while Vishnu conceded his defeat. Shiva appeared as a second pillar of light and cursed Brahma that he would have no place in ceremonies while Vishnu would be worshipped till the end of eternity ].
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M A H E S H W A R
We drove to Maheshwar erstwhile capital of Ahilya Bai Holkar.The Holkars ruled during 17th century and there was some question as to who would ascend the throne after Malhar Rao Holkar, as his son had been blown away by a cannon ball much earlier.The king himself decided in favour of his daughter-in-law Ahilya Bai Holkar who moved the state's capital to Maheshwar in 1767 and ruled from a palace-fort in Maheshwar. Ahilya has gone down in history as an able,shrewd and compassionate ruler who had much success with the iron-hand-in-velvet-glove technique.To this day she is remembered and revered in song and legend, as a just queen known for her philanthropic and gracious disposition.
Incidently, the weave of the famous maheshwari saris was introduced by her. Maheshwar is now synonymous with the exquisitely delicate cotton and silk blend handloom saris woven by its people in exquisite Chanderi and Maheshwari saris, and the wondrous Zari work it has to offer.
A palace on its premises has now been converted into a museum displaying heirlooms, paraphernalia and other trivia belonging to the Holkar Dynasty. A really special exhibit is the small shrine on a palanquin which is carried down from the fort during the annual festival of Dusshera. Another must-see is the beautiful statue of Rani Ahilya Bai seated on her throne. Kaleshwara, Ajaraheshwara, Vithaleshwara and Ahileshwara temples. are multi-storeyed and have intricately worked doorways and overhanging balconies.
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M A N D U
M A N D U
We drove to M A N D U ( 100 km from Indore) the most picturesque and exotic locale and also a perfect honeymoon destination. It is the city of love and delight; after all one of its most famous legends is the love story of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati.
Roopmati, was a Hindu singer of Malwa. Sultan Baz Bahadur and Roopmati fell in love with each other and were married Baz Bahadur chanced upon a shepherdess frolicking and singing with her friends. Smitten by both her enchanting beauty and her melodious voice, he begged Roopmati to accompany him to his capital. Roopmati agreed to go to Mandu on the condition that she would live in a palace within sight of her beloved and venerated river, Narmada.
Thus was built the Rewa Kund at Mandu. The Rewa Kund is a reservoir built by Baz Bahadur at Mandu, equipped with an aqueduct to supply Roopmati's palace with water. Today, the site is revered as a holy spot. It was astounding and thrilling to visit the Baz Bahadur's Palace which was constructed in the early 16th century. Its spacious courtyard fringed with halls, and high terraces, gave us a terrific view of the lovely surroundings. Rani Roopmati's Pavilion was built as an army observation post. It served a more romantic purpose as Roopmati's retreat. From this picturesque pavilion perched on a hilltop, the queen could gaze at her paramour's palace, and also at the Narmada flowing by, below. Situated on an outcrop of the Vindhyas, the hill-fort is separated from the surrounding plateau by a deep ravine. The ruins are spread over a vast area and are surrounded by luxuriant undergrowth and crystal clear lakes and ponds. We came across an exhibit fossil of the defunct dinosaur in the terrain. It was amazing to know that this area was once the fearful "Zurrasic Park" millions of years ago. We stayed for the night in a jungle resort with one side of the room fixed with transparent glass to enable us to watch the animals of the forest moving in the night. We were advised not to put on any light till day-break. Quite a formidable experience for us.
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