It is the ultimate desire of every Hindu to take on arduous journey, at least once in life time, to the remote holy shrines of Garhwal Himalayas, full of mythologies and legends. I was no exception when I desired to go on a pilgrimage to the four sacred abodes of Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath located in the Himalayas with my wife and mother, who was almost 80 years old. Apart from visiting the religious places we were also keen on a sightseeing trip and we were fortunate to witness some of the most breath taking natural locations. The tour was by rail, Bus, car, Mules and even by walk or trekking... offering the most unforgettable experience of our lives, both visual and spiritual.
Our first camp from Delhi was at Haridwar ( Gateway to Lord Vishnu ) one of the seven most holy Hindu places in India and also one of the oldest living cities. HARIDWAR is about 200 km from Delhi and we reached by our Tour-Bus and found it crowded with a large number of Hindu pilgrims from all over the world. Haridwar is amongst those places which every Hindu wants to visit at least once in his life time. According to legend, this is where a drop of nectar(AMRUTH) fell from the churning of the oceans. Kumbha Mela is also held here once in every twelve years. This is where the turbulent Ganges enters the Indo-Gangetic Plains of North India for the first time to start the long slow journey across northern India towards the Bay of Bengal. We visited many Temples, including Ma Anandamayee Ashram and Mansa Devi Mandir, atop a hill by cable car. It was a thrilling evening to visit the river GANGES where thousands of devotees gather to bathe and worship the river Goddess. We crossed the bridge and took bath in the Ganges and sent floating lamps in the river. We witnessed the enchanting Ganga Aarti at Har ki Pauri. Within a short time the river was full of floating lamps moving towards dark horizon. The entire area was vibrating with devotional fervour. My mother was totally overwhelmed to be at this enchanting place. 
We moved towards the holy city of RISHIKESH, in the base of the Himalayas, known as the Gateway to the Himalayas. The Char Dham Yatra ( Sacred Journey to Four Shrines ) actually begins from Rishikesh. It was again crowded with pilgrims, Ashrams and temples. The landmarks are the two bridges spanning the Ganges, Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula, the epicentre of the main hubs of all activities. We took bath at Triveni Ghat, I swam a little despite the turbulant waters. My mother meditated and prayed by the river side. Thousands of pilgrims take bath here morning to evening and enjoy the Maha Aarti being performed there. We visited the 13 stories high Trayambakeshwar Temple, with many deities and the Gita Bhavan near Lakshman Jhula. A completely out of the world experience with the minds of all the pilgrims absorbed in spirituality.
My mother was excited while traveling by bus towards Jamunothri, perched amidst sprawling Garhwal Hills. Yamunotri is another revered pilgrim spot, the source of sacred river Yamuna and also the abode of goddess Yamuna. The thermal springs, glaciers and scenic locales were bewitching. We hired mules, along with other pilgrims, to climb over a few staggering mountains to reach the settlement of Janaki Chatti near Jamunothri. My wife was ahead, followed by my mother and myself behind them, all in mules, with strict instructions not to look behind or below. It was such a stunning and exciting trek over spectacular terrains, going up and down all the time all over the day. I wonder how my mother made it finally when we reached Hanumanchatti, the resting place in the evening. It was raining heavily. 
The plan was to proceed to Yamunotri shrine early in the morning by trek /doli / pony ride and climb up the 6 km path along the rugged mountain path, for a dip in the freshly melted waters of the Yamunotri glacier. On arrival, cook rice wrapped in cloth in hot water pond and keep it as Prasad, offer worship to Divya Shila, holy darshan of goddess Yamuna and return to Hanumanchatti. As my mother could not ride the pony again to the top, she stayed back wisely and abstained from the arduous climb. My wife was ahead of me in the mule and the climb was through narrow track cut on rocks of the mountain with deep curves and turns. It was raining and slippery. At one dangerous turn, my mule stumbled a little and I fell down, losing my balance but held on to the reins precariously, my feet dangling. My wife was moving ahead watching me helplessly. My mule held on to the ground firmly marvelously and I pulled myself up slowly and got on my feet. I survived a certain catastrophe, miraculously. I do not know to what depths I would have fallen from that dangerous height. While pulling myself up, I looked at the mule anxiously and it was also looking at me. What a fantastic savior it was. I started walking with the mule in pouring rain. My wife was not visible making me all the more anxious. Finally I found her and the guide was also waiting for me. I told him, I am not proceeding further and would rather wait for the others till they return. We returned with others totally drenched and shivering. Today I feel, I could have ignored that mishap and gone ahead....
GANGES......Wandering over the awesome Himalayas, up and down, losing sense of direction over the labyrinth of winding routes, flanked by towering mountains on both sides or passing through perilously steep rock-cut roads between steep mountains and deep valleys....it was like floating in Heavens. For many hours, till mid-day, we could not see the sun, steep mountains blocking our view of the sun. Nothing but spectacular mountains and turbulent rivers flowing deep down.The atmosphere and environment was gigantic, totally peaceful, calm, salubrious and pure. Left to yourself in this place, you will live forever. The roaring flow of the ferocious river, springs and water falls gave us a divine heavenly feeling. The five headstreams of the Great Ganges --- Bhagirathi, Mandakini, Alaknanda, Dhauliganga and Pindar, were flowing all along our route in these northern mountains of Uttarakhand with amazing speed and manoeuver. While Alaknanda appears to be the source stream of the Ganges on account of its greater length and discharge; but, Bhagirathi holds the claim based on Mythology, culture and custom. One legend has it that when the goddess Ganga descended earth to help suffering humanity, the earth was unable to withstand the force of her descent and was therefore split into twelve holy channels, with Alaknanda one of them. Alaknanda flows past the Hindu pilgrimage centre of Badrinath. Its main tributaries are the Mandakini, Nandakini, and Pindar rivers flowing through the Alaknanda valley meeting and merging with the Bhagirathi River at Devprayag. The river is known as the Ganges from here on..
The drive towards GANGOTRI was spectacular sprawling with the majestic views of the Himalayas. There were many landslides during our trip to Gangothri. Many times, we left the bus to wade through slippery slush in risky terrains and watch the driver manipulate the empty bus to safety. At that height in Gangothri at 6800 feet above sea level (3000 m), I felt a little breathless and weightlessness. We halted for the night's stay and exchanged rumours about mishaps. The story of Bagirath penance and dreadful way the Ganga landed in this spot looked too real. It was here that a famous danseuse was washed away in a landslide. Truly scaring place.... Finally we made it to the 18th century’s temple dedicated to Goddess Ganga, located near a sacred stone where King Bhagirath worshiped Lord Shiva. Ganga is believed to have touched earth at this spot. I was very proud when my mother, entered the waters of GANGA at this spot and I took a photograph of the scene. Some religious pilgrims took bath at this spot in the chilly waters of the Gangotri Glacier. We were shown GAUMUKH the source of Ganga set in the Gangotri Glacier, almost a 30 km trek from Gangotri. Only expert trekkers can attempt it. We were also told about the submerged SHIVLING visible ONLY in winter when level of water decreases....the place where SHIVA stood. I could visualise LORD SHIVA standing there receiving the roaring Ganga in his matted lock. Truly a mythical scene. Are we really standing there....?
I think our next memorable location was Rudraprayag with a spectacular view of the confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini Rivers. The awesome heights of the Himalayas and the depths of the valley made us feel extraordinarily unearthly and closer to divinity, which no words can describe. We visited the Rudranath Temple named after Lord Shiva ...
We drove in our bus and reached Guptkashi or UttarKashi situated on the banks of river Bhagirathi where the ancient Vishwanath temple and Ardhnareshwar temple are the main places of attraction in the center of the town.. We visited the Manikarnik Kund, where the two streams of Ganga and Yamuna are believed to meet. The ancient Shiva temple has a great importance quite like that of Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
Our next destination was KEDARNATH and en rote we reached Sonprayag located at the confluence of Basuki and Mandakini rivers, situated at an elevation of 4000 feet above mean sea level on the Kedarnath route. A mere touch of the holy waters here is said to help attain emancipation MOKSHA at this holy site. Triyuginarayan, the marriage place of Lord Shiva and Parvati, just 5 kms on foot or 15 kms by bus from Son Prayag. We visited by bus. Kedarnath was another 20 kms from here. We proceeded towards Gaurikund, the last bus station on the Kedarnath route.. On reaching at Gaurikund, we alighted from the bus and took bath in the hot water springs of Gaurikund and visited the Gauri Devi temple. . It is the place where Goddess Parvati penanced to get lord Shiva.
We started our 14km trek to Kedarnath at an altitude of more than 6000 feet, by foot/Doli/ Pony. We engaged a dholi for my mother for the trek of 14 kms towards Kedarnath and we walked behind her dholi trekking the distance. It is truly exciting spiritually and physically to go through this ennobling trek towards the Dham. At one high point, I remember telling my mother that the Great KAILASH is just on the other side, pointing out towards north. She was astonished to have reached so near.The guide was narrating various incidents from Mahabaratha that took place here. I remember one about BHIMA who stood between two hills and checking the herds passing through to identify Lord Shiva who was trying to evade them. We checked in a Hotel and visited the sacred shrine of Kedarnath, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva situated in scenic spot, against the backdrop of the majestic Kedarnath range. The temple of Kedarnath is magnificent in its style and architecture and considered to be more than a thousand years old temple. The Lord Kedarnath here is flanked by Mandakini River and snow tipped mountains presenting an enchanting sight. All around it, is an aura of peace and purity which we enjoyed going all over the area.. Here, the unholy are said to become holy and the holy, holier still. I felt very sad when nature played havoc in this place recently.
Another long drive through the terrace of the Himalayas, hovering over lofty peaks, admiring the mighty nature, we reached Joshimath. It is the "uttarmnya matha" or northern monastery, one of the four cardinal institutions established by Adi Shankara, [the others being those at Shringeri, Puri and Dwaraka]. Their heads are titled "Shankaracharya". According to the tradition initiated by Adi Shankara, this matha is in charge of the Atharvaveda. We visited the Cave of Sage Vyasa. It is believed that God Ganesha first script of vedas in this Vayas gufa, situated in the last village Mana just four km. from Badrinath. We visited this Cave, fascinated by the mythological site.
Vishnuprayag is one of the Panch Prayag (five confluences) of Alaknanda River,and lies at the confluence of Alaknanda River and Dhauliganga River on the Joshimath-Badrinath route. According to mythology, it is the place where Sage Narada meditated, after which Lord Vishnu appeared before him. Kagbhusandi Lake, with its emerald green water, was an attraction on the way..
We proceeded towards the most popular Badrinath Dham perched at an elevation of 7500 feet above sea level, just 40km from the Tibetan-Indo-China border.I remember an eerie feeling I had while settling down in the hotel, feeling quite uneasy at this altitude. It was shivering cold and my mother was totally submerged in woolen attire. It is one of the holiest, oldest and ancient temple, which none of our predecessors might ever have visited. I felt like Tenzing the conqueror. Badrinath Dham was founded by Shankara in the ninth century, not far from the source of the Alaknanda, the main tributary of the Ganges. One of Hinduism's holiest sites. We visited the temple and had the darshan of the one meter tall statue of Vishnu, made of black stone, worshiped as Lord Badrinarayanin deity. The murti depicts Vishnu sitting in an unusual meditative posture,unlike the typical reclining pose. The statue is considered by many Hindus to be one of eight "swayam vyakta kshetras", or self-manifested statues of Vishnu. The head priest is traditionally a Namboothri Brahmin from the far south of India in Kerala. This tradition was begun by Adi Shankara. It is quite a Benediction to witness and experience the enchanting aarti of lord Badrinath in the evening. The Tapt Kund hot sulphur springs just below the temple are considered to be medicinal and we took bath in the springs before visiting the temple. The mountains around Badrinath are mentioned in the Mahabharata, when the Pandavas abdicated their kingdom and proceeded on "Vanaprastha"to end their life by ascending the slopes of a peak in western Garhwal called Swargarohini - literally, the 'Ascent to Heaven'. Local legend has it that the Pandavas passed through Badrinath and the town of Mana, 4 km north of Badrinath, on their way to Svarga (heaven). I remember telling my mother that this is the way to Heaven......
It was a very fulfilling episode in the life of my mother, who wrote her memoirs of the pilgrimage in her diary. We also cherish the moments of awe, adventure and inspiration that these places gave us, to recall with nostalgia, the rest of our lives.
Vishnuprayag is one of the Panch Prayag (five confluences) of Alaknanda River,and lies at the confluence of Alaknanda River and Dhauliganga River on the Joshimath-Badrinath route. According to mythology, it is the place where Sage Narada meditated, after which Lord Vishnu appeared before him. Kagbhusandi Lake, with its emerald green water, was an attraction on the way..We proceeded towards the most popular Badrinath Dham perched at an elevation of 7500 feet above sea level, just 40km from the Tibetan-Indo-China border.I remember an eerie feeling I had while settling down in the hotel, feeling quite uneasy at this altitude. It was shivering cold and my mother was totally submerged in woolen attire. It is one of the holiest, oldest and ancient temple, which none of our predecessors might ever have visited. I felt like Tenzing the conqueror. Badrinath Dham was founded by Shankara in the ninth century, not far from the source of the Alaknanda, the main tributary of the Ganges. One of Hinduism's holiest sites. We visited the temple and had the darshan of the one meter tall statue of Vishnu, made of black stone, worshiped as Lord Badrinarayanin deity. The murti depicts Vishnu sitting in an unusual meditative posture,unlike the typical reclining pose. The statue is considered by many Hindus to be one of eight "swayam vyakta kshetras", or self-manifested statues of Vishnu. The head priest is traditionally a Namboothri Brahmin from the far south of India in Kerala. This tradition was begun by Adi Shankara. It is quite a Benediction to witness and experience the enchanting aarti of lord Badrinath in the evening. The Tapt Kund hot sulphur springs just below the temple are considered to be medicinal and we took bath in the springs before visiting the temple. The mountains around Badrinath are mentioned in the Mahabharata, when the Pandavas abdicated their kingdom and proceeded on "Vanaprastha"to end their life by ascending the slopes of a peak in western Garhwal called Swargarohini - literally, the 'Ascent to Heaven'. Local legend has it that the Pandavas passed through Badrinath and the town of Mana, 4 km north of Badrinath, on their way to Svarga (heaven). I remember telling my mother that this is the way to Heaven......
It was a very fulfilling episode in the life of my mother, who wrote her memoirs of the pilgrimage in her diary. We also cherish the moments of awe, adventure and inspiration that these places gave us, to recall with nostalgia, the rest of our lives.
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